Review: Devon Cafe nail the winter truffle menu yet again (Sydney)

Now that all three of their venues across Sydney (the original Surry Hills location, North Sydney and Barangaroo) are well-established, Devon Café has never been in a stronger position. The highly influential and pioneering café, which arguably bolstered the cities offensive in its ongoing dining rivalry with Melbourne, remains one of the best and most referenced across the city. It’s a bonus that all three of their venues have slightly tweaked menus, a commitment to difference that carries over to their now traditional winter truffle menu. Each season Devon introduce a number of creative and playful truffle dishes (as with many other top venues up and down the East Coast) and this year is certainly no exception. Here we’re taking a quick look at Barangaroo’s limited edition truffle menu, which also extends to their regular everyday menu seeing as anything can be ‘pimped’ with truffles while the season lasts (I don’t even have to tell you how heavenly their signature ‘Breakfast with the Sakumas’ tastes with added truffle).

Proving the most popular so far as been the Truffle Egg Sando, which is a simple stuffed sandwich of crust-less white bread holding the juicy combination of a fat, thick, bright yellow truffle omelette with mushroom pate and additional shaved truffle. They’re offering it up on weekdays until 11am, so workers around the Barangaroo area will be wise to take advantage of it while it lasts (though this is also available at the North Sydney venue).

More exclusive to Barangaroo is an exciting Truffle Mi Goreng with house made pasta, sautéed mushrooms, chicarron, shaved truffle and a 63* egg, although on my visit the dish was sold out.

As mentioned above, the regular menu can also be pimped with truffles so you’d be wise to grab up the massive Bubba Gump Omelette, bringing a little Cajun influence into the café with a cheese omelette bursting with gumbo style prawns, creole veggies, chorizo buerre blanc and a crispy house baked croissant. The truffle on top imparts that strong and distinctive flavour, adding nicely to an already busy profile.

Moving up in size, the Omurice doesn’t benefit quite as much from the truffle taste, but it’s no less worth getting on its own with a generous serving of tomato and garlic butter rice topped by a Japanese omelette, mushroom, demi-glace sauce and a choice of bacon katsu, steak, crumbed prawns or fried chicken. Tip: get the fried chicken.

While truffle may not work with everything on the menu, there’s enough here to experiment with while the menu lasts, and given Devon’s consistent quality, that is one of most valuable things to do in Sydney’s casual dining scene this winter.

Devon Café (Barangaroo)

Address: 19/200 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo
Contact: (02) 9262 4660
Website: www.devoncafe.com.au

Images supplied.