Review: Delhi by the Way – Potts Point (Sydney)

It seems the recently reinvigorated Kellet Way in Potts Point is once again picking up as a destination for locals and visitors who are looking food good, quiet restaurants and small bars to help battle the lockout law-induced blues. The small street has already drawn a new life from bars The Powder Keg and Parsons, and now casual Indian restaurant Delhi by the Way is adding to the area’s new look. Located on the corner of Kellet Street and Kellet Way, this Delhi-inspired eatery is leading the charge for new restaurants in the area, and so far things seem to be going quite well for owner Susheel Kumar, locals seemingly magnetised by the relaxed, terrace-style atmosphere with an interior which has been fitted out with a stunning, open design that’s both homely and flashy, as if you’ve just stepped into an eccentric wealthy Maharaja’s Sydney getaway.

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Seating on the front porch is nice and airy, seeming like the way to go on days when the weather isn’t too chilly. It doesn’t take long to settle in before picking up the comprehensive menu. The enormity of the options here are a bit off-putting to begin with but it goes provide plenty of choice as opposed to the modern Indian restaurant which focuses on doing a few things to a high standard. Traditional recipes shaped with Australian produce is what you’ll find, as well as some of the best breads in the area, including a must-order starter of crispy Plain Poppadums ($2.90 for 3 pieces). Yes, these are standard Indian starters, but they are far better than most here, especially with the house-made chutneys ($2.90) of which the mango and date dips are especially valuable.

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There are plenty of tempting ways to start a feast here, from the Saag Paneer ($18.90), which is Indian cottage cheese cooked in baby spinach, and the Ghilafi Kebab ($16.90 for 4 pieces), minced chicken stuffed with masala goat’s cheese and cooked in tandoor, to the Khumi Tikka ($14.90), which is a plate of two very large, golden cup mushrooms stuffed with cheese and cooked in a tandoor oven. The mushrooms are soft and smokey, overflowing with sticky, melted cheese that is rich and pairs up perfectly with a naan or two.

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In mentioning naans, it’s best to go for the Cheese & Shallot ($5.90), which comes steaming hot, relatively thin and crispy compared to naans from similar restaurants, not overloaded with cheese but filled just enough to give it an incredibly indulgent taste with added texture from the shallots.

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It’s also recommended to get one of the smaller chicken dishes, and the Murgh Tikka ($16.90) is your best bet here. Five pieces of boneless chicken marinated in Indian spices and cooked in the tandoor comes served on a simple plate, dipping in flavour and even tastier when had with some of the house-made chutneys.

Get a few curries for the mains, and there’s a lot of choice here between beef, goat, lamb, seafood, and chicken. Whichever you choose, make sure the Kari Meen ($23.90) is included, a beautiful curried fish that’s been tossed with curry leaves, mustard seeds, and spices, soft and fluffy with a rich taste that melts onto the tongue and lingers long enough for you to follow up a crisp white wine or a stronger spirit (go for some Bombay Sapphire of course).

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The atmosphere and service here cements Delhi by the Way as a necessary addition to a dining scene which is only beginning to rebuild. Sydney has recently seen a pretty amazing streak of good quality Indian restaurants spread across the city, and this one is definitely up there with the ones who are changing the way we experience Indian food as opposed to the usual, excessively creamy, and overly westernised takeaway shop.

Delhi by the Way

Address: 42 Kellett St, Potts Point
Contact: (02) 9368 0123
Website: http://www.delhibytheway.com.au/
Opening Hours:
Saturday 5–11pm
Sunday 5–11pm
Monday Closed
Tuesday 5–11pm
Wednesday 5–11pm
Thursday 5–11pm
Friday 5–11pm